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tashby

Jun 16, 2011, 7:42 AM

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A MONTH in Mexico City!

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I'll be spending the entire month of July in el D.F. Renting an apartment in La Condesa. Interested in hearing suggestions on things to do....neighborhoods worth exploring, day-trips (or even overnight trips), etc.

What would you do with a month in the capital?

La Isla

Jun 16, 2011, 9:41 AM

Post #2 of 61 (7625 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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I'd love to give you some ideas about how to spend your month in my adopted city, but before I waste your time with the obvious (the Anthropology Museum, the Centro Histórico, the Bazar del Sábado in San Angel), it would be helpful to know if you've been here before and what sorts of activities interest you.

tashby

Jun 16, 2011, 11:20 AM

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Sorry La Isla, of course I should have provided more info. Yes, have been there before (twice) but only for very short trips. Never with the luxury of an entire month. During my month there, a friend will be visiting and she has never been, so I'm sure we'll do our share of the major sites (re-visiting mostly, in my case. There are still some of the biggies I haven't seen though....the inside of the National Palace being a glaring example).

For background, I live in Ajijic, which if you've never visited is a backwater cowtown. So I'm looking for urban experiences that can only be had in the capital, essentially anything that is the opposite of Ajijic. Urban art, funky neighborhoods, maybe a great street-food tour. La Lagunilla. Different neighborhoods that are interesting to explore on foot. Other interests include architecture and design, watering-holes and restaurants that ooze history, a spectacular bookstore would be great. I want to see things that surprise me. Any places that are "quintessentially" Mexico City, or have an interesting "scene" go to the top of the list.

I don't know if any of this is making any sense. Hope so.

Also, any great day trip, or overnight trip ideas are welcome. I guess Cuernavaca? Not much interested in Teotihuacan, frankly. I'm ruined on ruins. Maybe Xochimilco, but probably not on a weeked...

La Isla

Jun 16, 2011, 7:19 PM

Post #4 of 61 (7549 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thanks for giving me a better idea of what you and your friend many want to see here. I'll give it some thought and get back to you soon.

A couple of comments for now. I would skip Xochimilco unless you have a bunch of friends in Mexico City that would want to join you there. If there will only be two of you, sitting in a trajinera for a couple of hours trolling along the canals could get boring rather quickly! And it's quite a long trip to get there from your hotel in Condesa. Lucky you to be staying in an area of the city with two of its nicest parks, Parque México and Parque España!

Here's an additional comment about Xochimilco. While I would skip the canals, I do recommend that you visit the wonderful Dolores Olmedo Museum located in Xochimilco, but not in the touristy canal area. Here's the link to the official website:

http://www.museodoloresolmedo.org.mx/

(This post was edited by Rolly on Jun 16, 2011, 8:16 PM)

tashby

Jun 16, 2011, 8:17 PM

Post #5 of 61 (7528 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Quote

I would skip Xochimilco unless you have a bunch of friends in Mexico City that would want to join you there.

As I think about it, that is truly insightful and great advice. Would definitely be best experienced with a group, and then.....on a weekend!

Mostly I guess what I'm looking for are places to poke around, hang out, and to try to scratch a teeny tiny bit under the visitor surface. I don't need much to keep me interested. I enjoy people-watching.

I can find museums and sites in guidebooks.

Thanks!

(This post was edited by tashby on Jun 16, 2011, 8:20 PM)

La Isla

Jun 16, 2011, 9:30 PM

Post #6 of 61 (7510 views)

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Mostly I guess what I'm looking for are places to poke around, hang out, and to try to scratch a teeny tiny bit under the visitor surface. I don't need much to keep me interested. I enjoy people-watching.

If people watching is your thing, the two parks I mentioned in my previous post are a good place to start though the people and their pets you will see will be mostly middle class. For more variety, you could try calle Gante in the Centro Histórico, which is a pedestrian mall with several outdoor cafés for your viewing pleasure.

Anonimo

Jun 16, 2011, 11:03 PM

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I'd first be making a list of unmissable restaurants.

We plan to return to El Racó, a Catalán restaurant across from the northern end of Parque México, at the end of August.

El Cardenal, the original in Centro, is worth a visit.
El Bajío, the original, in Colonia Obrera Popular, a don't miss.

Visit the San Juan Mercado area, south of the Alameda, west of Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas, east of Avenida Balderas. Street food along Calle Ayuntamiento and south on López towards Arcos de Belén. (I admit I haven’t tried many of those places.)
Pulquería Las Duelistas, on Calle Aranda, just off Ayutamiento. Worth a stop just for the prehispanic, hallucinogenic decor.

More people watching: Avenida Álvaro Obregón in Colonia Roma. The Plazas Luis Cabrera, 3 bocks south of Álvaro, on Calle Orizaba. Plaza Río de Janeiro, north on Orizaba, with its Casa de Bruja (Rosemary’s Baby, perhaps?)

Several bookstores along Av. Álvaro Obregón, mostly on the south side. Pegaso, El Ático, etc.

There's a Sat-Sun tianguis on the parklike divider strip of the same street, with collectables, books, etc.

Saludos,
Anonimo

La Isla

Jun 17, 2011, 1:02 PM

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Re: [Anonimo] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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The flea market on Alvaro Obregon on Sunday is lots of fun, with the usual flea market stuff, including some almost-antiques. I went there recently with a neighbor, and he bought an old metal meat grinder, the kind my grandmother would have used, that actually worked! I found a cute straw sun hat, which I had been told was made in Mexico, but when I got home and examined the label carefully, I found out it was, of course, made in China. No matter - it's really cute and is coming in handy with the extended hot season we're been suffering (and sweating) the last 3 months. There is also a section set aside for young artists, who sell their work for reasonable prices, and you get to chat with them about their art. If you're interested in affordable art (and frames), you can also check out the large art fair held every Sunday at the Jardín del Arte in Colonia Cuauhtémoc near the border with colonia San Rafael between Villalongín and James Sullivan streets.

tashby

Jun 17, 2011, 2:22 PM

Post #9 of 61 (7437 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thank you Anonimo and La Isla! I don't have time to reply in detail right now, but want you to know how much I appreciate this info. Especially appreciate the super-specifics of it all. More later.

Cheers!

rockydog85251

Jun 18, 2011, 6:42 AM

Post #10 of 61 (7383 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Was pretty sure I had posted something about this earlier but can't locate it, sooooo:

La Isla can probably give you the name or you can find it online, but try to find the oldest, continously operating restaurant in DF....we stumbled across it & ate dinner there about 12 yrs ago.....I remember it as being loud, dark & VERY interesting.
We also enjoyed Cafe Tacuba, which we also stumbled into & a "personage" came with her entourage & gave an inpromptu performance that all the Mexicans went crazy over. Never did find out who it was.........but fun!
Have a great time!!
Willie

La Isla

Jun 18, 2011, 10:32 AM

Post #11 of 61 (7345 views)

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Re: [rockydog85251] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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I can't help you with the name of the oldest continuously-operating eatery in the D.F. though it sounds like it might be fun to visit.

Never been to Cafe Tacuba since I've been told by those in the know that the food is rather pricey and not that great. Apparently, people go there for the ambiente and the fame of the place rather than for the cuisine, and, apparently, on the off-chance that someone famous will show and entertain, as happened to rockydog.

(This post was edited by La Isla on Jun 18, 2011, 10:35 AM)

esperanza

Jun 18, 2011, 10:44 AM

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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La Isla, the last time I ate at Café Tacuba, the food was outstanding--really outstanding. Not only that, the portions were huge, much more than a person would actually want to finish at one sitting. I had heard what you had heard, so I ordered a pechuga con mole and crossed my fingers, expecting a standard-issue semi-okay meal. Wow, was I surprised by how delicious it was. The prices were definitely more than you'd pay for comida corrida at a fonda, but not exorbitant for what we were served. I was amazed.

We were last there for comida, but I've also been for breakfast. Café Tacuba's Sunday breakfast is about as much fun as you can have sitting down. The pan dulce (made on the premises), the hot chocolate, the menu of great breakfast selections, and the estudiantina (musicians in medieval dress) combine to give the crowds their money's worth. I'd go again anytime.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

rockydog85251

Jun 18, 2011, 10:45 AM

Post #13 of 61 (7333 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Found it!!! Here is a link that also provides a map.....you can google it for more info:

http://www.gayot.com/...xico_65mx080228.html
Willie

esperanza

Jun 18, 2011, 10:48 AM

Post #14 of 61 (7329 views)

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Re: [rockydog85251] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Several years ago, friends invited me to Hostería Santo Domingo for comida. I loved the ambiance, but I thought the food was awful. YMMV.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

La Isla

Jun 18, 2011, 10:52 AM

Post #15 of 61 (7324 views)

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Re: [esperanza] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thanks for the glowing review, esperanza. I guess I'll give the Cafe a try the next time I find myself in the Centro Histórico and want something more exciting than a comida corrida.

Vichil

Jun 18, 2011, 11:35 AM

Post #16 of 61 (7312 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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I usually stay in Centro a few blocks from Cafe Tacuba and have eaten there quite a few time.The food has been always nice and the atmosphere great.

Has anyone tried Biko in Polanco or Tezka? That is on my list for my next trip.

(This post was edited by Vichil on Jun 25, 2011, 10:58 AM)

esperanza

Jun 18, 2011, 12:28 PM

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Re: [Vichil] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Haven't yet been to Biko or Tezka.

I have been to Restaurante D.O. and thought it was just okay and not as good as the hype, in spite of its super-famous chef. I love JASO, at Newton 88 in Polanco (caveat: the owners are friends of mine, but even so, it's a big wow).

Next up on my list of gotta-try-its will be Enrique Olvera's Pujol and Daniel Ovadia's Paxia.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

Anonimo

Jun 18, 2011, 12:53 PM

Post #18 of 61 (7287 views)

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Re: [esperanza] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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In Reply To

Several years ago, friends invited me to Hostería Santo Domingo for comida. I loved the ambiance, but I thought the food was awful. YMMV.

We went there for the famed chile en nogada.
It gave me a permanent dislike for that dish.

Saludos,
Anonimo

tashby

Jun 19, 2011, 9:42 AM

Post #19 of 61 (7229 views)

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Re: [Anonimo] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Hey! How did this turn into a restaurant thread? Hahaha.

I appreciate all the tips and recommendations, and have copied them into my trip file. Will definitely be going back to the weekend market in Roma on Obregón, which we just stumbled into last year by shear luck. Besides the parks, and calle Gante in Centro that La Isla mentioned, are there any other pedestrian-only (or at least pedestrian-oriented) areas where people congregate for fun? I've been to San Angél for B. Sabado. Thanks again!

Vichil

Jun 19, 2011, 10:14 AM

Post #20 of 61 (7220 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Go riding a bike on Sunday morning along with the other thousands of people....

La Isla

Jun 19, 2011, 11:33 AM

Post #21 of 61 (7207 views)

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Re: [Vichil] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Go riding a bike on Sunday morning along with the other thousands of people....

That would be hard to do unless tashby and her friend bring their bikes with them. I don't believe the ECoBici option is available for tourists. But you could come to Reforma in the area between the Monumento a Cuauhtemoc and the entrance to Chapultepec park to watch the people on bikes and skates and their own two feet enjoying a car-free avenue.

tashby

Jun 19, 2011, 1:00 PM

Post #22 of 61 (7194 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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So Reforma is closed to vehicular traffic on Sundays all the way between Cuauhtémoc Circle and Paque Chapultepec? Wow.

Another question. I'm going to have blissfully easy access to the Metrobus on Insurgentes Sur, and from that, access to the Metro itself. But what's the easiest way to get from one end of Reforma to the other, say from Alameda to Chapultepec? I'm sure there are busses, but how are they marked? Or alternatively, what approximately would a taxi cost between Alameda and Chapultepec.....around $80 pesos?

(This post was edited by tashby on Jun 19, 2011, 1:01 PM)

La Isla

Jun 19, 2011, 1:08 PM

Post #23 of 61 (7190 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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To get from near the Alameda to Chapultepec Park, you can take a bus across Reforma from the Hidalgo Metro station. All the buses that pick up passengers at that stop go down Reforma and into (and usually through) the park. To be sure, take one that says Auditorio. It will cost 4.5 or 5 pesos, and you will need exact change. Depending on how much traffic there is, a taxi should be between 25 to 40 pesos. All taxis these days have working meters, so you don't need to worry about being overcharged.

tashby

Jun 19, 2011, 2:00 PM

Post #24 of 61 (7173 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thank you! Good to know that many of the busses going up and down Reforma do just that and don't veer off into different directions so much. My feet are already tired just thinking of all the walking I'm going to be doing, so I'll definitely be learning the ropes of public transport options.

La Isla

Jun 19, 2011, 2:06 PM

Post #25 of 61 (7166 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Another piece of advice, bring a good pair of comfortable walking shoes, but you probably knew that already!

Maesonna

Jun 19, 2011, 8:30 PM

Post #26 of 61 (2402 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Apart from going to visit specific targets like museums, restaurants, etc. I very much like walking around the streets near downtown (particularly around the Zócalo, and mostly to the west and south of it, also a bit to the north/north-west. Each street is a story in itself. Many the streets have clusters of similar businesses for several blocks, so you can visit, for example, the tools and hardware street, the wedding dress street, the craft supplies street, the small appliance repair street, the camera and photographic supply street, the tailor and suit fabric street, the shoe street, the industrial sewing machine street, the musical instrument street, and the bookstore street, to name just a few and to give you an idea of the variety. I could happily spend several days exploring around there.

You can do some bus exploring by simply getting on a bus with your Guia Roji map and seeing where it takes you. With a whole month, you can afford a few days to try that if you’re feeling adventurous. An example: Once I had to go to the Plaza La Flores mall way up north in Coacalco in the Mexico State part of Mexico City. We took a bus from Metro Indios Verdes and rode through a grey industrial wasteland with k after k of unbelievably huge warehouses, endless suburbs of drab cookie-cutter shacks and mysterious structures. It wasn't a touristy trip of pretty sights, but it was extremely interesting. Any random trip in any direction has the potential to be interesting.

Some more not-to-be-missed museum recommendations: San Ildefonso, Templo Mayor, and Castillo de Chapultepec.

tashby

Jun 19, 2011, 8:39 PM

Post #27 of 61 (2396 views)

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Here's a list of "594 Things to Do" in Mexico City, courtesy of the Lonely Planet website. It's an eclectic list, and the rankings appear completely meaningless on a relative basis, but it's a nice list to scan for ideas. It includes a LOT of different things to do, of every variety, so I thought I'd throw it into this thread for future reference. (I'm always amazed at the number of views MexConnect threads get, but with little active participation.) Another nice thing is each listing gives just a paragraph overview, but then you can click on it and dig a little further, which then includes address, a google map of location, etc., and sometimes a personal reviews from travelers.

Lonely Planet's "Things to Do in Mexico City" List: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/...co-city/things-to-do

Imagine my surprise when I clicked on a listing of a Churro Mecca and saw a review by MexConnect member Anonimo. Okay, that didn't surprise me at all, really. 8-)

tashby

Jun 19, 2011, 8:46 PM

Post #28 of 61 (2391 views)

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Re: [Maesonna] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thanks Maesonna. I've done the "let's see where this bus takes me" thing....just to see....'cause there's always another bus going back in the other direction. Fun stuff that....sometimes!

Maesonna

Jun 20, 2011, 8:42 AM

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OK, if you're up for semi-random bus rides, I like to recommend a trip to Milpa Alta. One way to get there is from the Tasqueña metro station, take a #36 pesera marked “Milpa Alta” (platform L or M, approximately, which you reach by exiting the metro station at the South exit). At the end of the route, you'll be across the street from the main market of Milpa Alta. There are also RTP buses that go to Milpa Alta from Tasqueña. The entrance to the main market is at the corner of Jalisco and Yucatan Sur streets.

Some of the vendors (mostly the informal ones outside on the sidewalk) come down from the mountains and this is as close as they get to Mexico City, so you can get some produce that doesn’t make it farther in to the city. For example, in the rainy season they offer a great variety of mushrooms and toadstools. Inside, you can get tasty tlacloyos, gorditas and more to eat on the spot or to take home. Also, there is a great quantity of nopales for sale in season, as this is the center of a nopal farming district.

Besides the market, there isn't much else to see in the town, but we like to take visitors to walk around and see the inside of the main church and of the Guadalupe chapel located on the side of the central square beside the church. Inside this chapel you can see a painting that depicts Virgen of Guadalupe hovering over the actual landscape visible outside the chapel, and to the left (as you're facing the chapel) there's a tiny garden depicting the appearance of the Virgen of Guadalupe to Juan Diego.

Back to the market, if you walk downhill towards the left (while facing the market) about 3 blocks to Puebla street and turn right, you will get to a place where you get a spectacular view of the valley spread below you. If the day is clear enough, you will also get a great view of the volcano.

On the way to Milpa Alta and on the way back, you'll pass through the town of San Pedro Atocpán, the mole capital of the region. There are so many mole shops here that the air is fragrant with spices. It would also be a nice place to get off the bus and explore. Many of the mole “factories” are little storefront operations crowded with open bins of all the spices, chiles, nuts and fruit that go into a mole. There are many restaurant options here, but the particular one we like to take visitors to is La Cabaña, slightly off the beaten track at Prolongacion Guadalupe Victoria 27 (just around the corner from Atzayacatl street).

tashby

Jun 20, 2011, 9:32 AM

Post #30 of 61 (2343 views)

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Re: [Maesonna] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Wow, wow, WOW!!! What a spectacularly generous and informative post. Thank you Maesonna! I already know somebody who wants to "go with" on this!

Sounds like a fun day, for sure. I really want to try to do it on a clear day for the views. I'll cross my fingers on that part.

Quick question. The RTP bus versus the pesera. About how long does the bus ride take, one versus the other? I'm guessing that in order to get off at San Pedro Atocpán, I'd need to take the pesera.

Thanks again!

(This post was edited by tashby on Jun 20, 2011, 9:33 AM)

Maesonna

Jun 20, 2011, 10:58 AM

Post #31 of 61 (2325 views)

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Sorry I can't answer specifically about the bus details. I guess it might be about an hour and a half. If that's not accurate, at least it's roughly correct. The RTP gets really crowded because it's an attractive deal for many people to ride all the way from Tasqueña to Milpa Alta for only 2 pesos. I'm not sure there would be a significant difference in the times between RTP and pesera. I didn't go into detail about the RTP also because I'm not sure where it leaves from in the metro station. There are other pesera options from Tasqueña, but my powers at describing how to get to where you catch the bus aren't up to it. One of the bases is on Miramontes at (or near?) the corner of Taxqueña avenue pretty much outside the metro station. That pesero is also a #36.

There are also buses to Milpa Alta that you can pick up in the center of Xochimilco, i.e. do the trip in more than one stage. In that case, the tren ligero is also an option for getting to Xochimilco, then it's just a couple of blocks from the last stop to where you catch the Milpa Alta buses (which is on Francisco I. Madero between Morelos and Hidalgo).

tashby

Jun 20, 2011, 11:22 AM

Post #32 of 61 (2316 views)

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Re: [Maesonna] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thanks. And hour and a half-ish is fine....I just didn't have any sense of how far it was. And I mistakenly assumed the "RTP" was a larger busline with fewer stops than the pesera. Thanks for all the rest of the info and I won't bother you about it again. Sounds like there's several ways to skin the cat, as ever. Cheers.

Maesonna

Jun 20, 2011, 12:24 PM

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It's no bother; I like to be able to steer people to the lesser-known facts. Express RTP buses exist, but most RTPs aren't express. Also, unlike peseras, even the regular non-express ones only stop at their designated stops, so in effect they do have fewer stops.

BTW, RTP stands for Red de Transporte de Pasajeros (Passenger Transportation Network). Unlike the privately-owned peseros, they are part of the municipal transportation network that includes the metro, tren ligero, Metrobus and trolleybuses (and commuter trains? this is getting to the edge of my sphere of knowledge).

(This post was edited by Maesonna on Jun 20, 2011, 12:29 PM)

La Isla

Jun 20, 2011, 12:46 PM

Post #34 of 61 (2301 views)

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In Reply To

BTW, RTP stands for Red de Transporte de Pasajeros (Passenger Transportation Network). Unlike the privately-owned peseros, they are part of the municipal transportation network that includes the metro, tren ligero, Metrobus and trolleybuses (and commuter trains? this is getting to the edge of my sphere of knowledge).

I didn´t know there were any commuter trains in this part of the country. In fact, I´ve always heard that only freight trains travel the rails in Mexico these days.

Maesonna

Jun 20, 2011, 2:04 PM

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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“Commuter train” is what I think the tren suburbano would be called in English. (“Suburban train” would be a calque.)

La Isla

Jun 20, 2011, 3:44 PM

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“Commuter train” is what I think the tren suburbano would be called in English. (“Suburban train” would be a calque.)

But is it a real train or just glorified subway service, like the "tren ligero" you take to get to Xochimilco?

Maesonna

Jun 20, 2011, 5:51 PM

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Sort of in between. Commuter trains are trains that link cities with their outlying suburbs or provide regional travel between cities within a single conurbation. They’re smaller-scale than inter-city trains, and larger-scale than internal light rail transit. This is the Mexico City one. To compare with the US, this is a list of US cities with commuter train systems.

La Isla

Jun 20, 2011, 6:33 PM

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Re: [Maesonna] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Not bad. It looks better than the Metro or the Tren Ligero.

RickS

Jun 20, 2011, 7:40 PM

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Re: [Maesonna] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Well, that Wikipedia page, which says it lists ALL the commuter rail systems in the US, ..... does not. Denver has a nice light rail commuter system that continues to expand. Been around for several years. Certainly more miles covered than some of those listed. I'm just saying......

Maesonna

Jun 20, 2011, 8:51 PM

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Re: [RickS] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Either Denver's system is considered more light rail than commuter rail, or you should edit the Wikipedia article to correct it!

Back to the topic of things to do with a month in Mexico City, there’s also this.

judithnpups

Jun 22, 2011, 9:22 PM

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Travis, Have you read David Lida's book, First Stop in the New World? It's a great read and highlights non-tourist, extremely off the beaten track places in the DF. I loved it. Here's a link, but we may have a copy.
http://www.amazon.com/...308802575&sr=1-1

Also, for pedestrian streets, not too far from La Condesa is the Zona Rosa with Calle Genova, a touristy pedestrian street you won't want to miss. Take the MetroBus up to Glorieta Insurgentes (about 3 stops). Genova starts at the glorieta and runs NNW, I think.

Nos vemos pronto,
Judith
Judith in the DF (formerly in Morelia)

tashby

Jun 23, 2011, 7:36 AM

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Re: [judithnpups] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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It took forever, but I finally got my hands on a copy of First Stop in the New World. Just finished it a few weeks ago. Great book. Am reading his other one, Travel Advisory - Stories from Mexico now, which I think he wrote first.

Thanks for the tip on Calle Genova. I've never been to the Zona Rosa, so sounds like that's an easy way to give it a whirl. I'm hoping there's some kind of monthly pass I can buy for the Metrobus. I remember seeing prepaid cards being used by others while I was fumbling for change.

And thanks for the link to the Gary Dennis blog, Maesonna. I think I already have too much I want to do!

judithnpups

Jun 23, 2011, 7:46 AM

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RE: MetroBus pass
There are machines at the entrance to each MB stop and in other locations around town. Just follow the directions on the machine. Insert $$$$. ($20 pesos will give you four trips.) The machine will issue you a card that you can then recharge at any location. Easy. But be sure to follow all the steps. If you skip the last one, you'll lose the balance on your new card. (Don't ask me how I know this.) The cost for the MB is 5 pesos per trip. Swiping the card to enter the station is fast and easy. I love the MetroBus.
Can't wait to see you.
Judith in the DF (formerly in Morelia)

La Isla

Jun 23, 2011, 8:48 AM

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Maybe because I remember the Zona Rosa from some years ago when it was much nicer and not inundated with fast food joints and bars blasting music out into the street on weekend nights, I can't recommend it as a must-see for visitors to the city. In particular, Genova is fast-food central and quite the most unpleasant street in the area, in my opinion. I would recommend the Plaza del Angel on Hamburgo, which is where high-end antique dealers have been located for many years. On Saturdays they place some of their less valuable items out of the stores and hold a sort of tianguis in the Plaza and at the Londres street entrance.

Maesonna

Jun 24, 2011, 1:05 PM

Post #45 of 61 (2004 views)

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I just went back to your original specs, and noticed that you asked about interesting bookstores. Depending on what interests you, here are some candidates:

Extensive selection, Spanish (also a small English section): Visit the Mother Ship of the Gandhi chain at Miguel Ángel de Quevedo 121 and 134. Maps here.

Interesting architecture, Spanish: FCE Rosario Castellanos. Information here. The interest is the modern stained glass ceiling by the Mexico-based Dutch artist Jan Hendrix which represents a bamboo tree of literature/writing.

Discounts, Spanish: FCE Alfonso Reyes. The bookstore at the FCE head office has many books on discount. Located just off Periférico around Picacho (very south). Information, and link to map here.

English! Cheap! The downtown used bookstore street is Donceles/Justo Sierra (same street, different names along different stretches). It runs east-west about one block north of the Cathedral on the Zócalo. Start behind the Cathedral and work your way westwards. The used-book stores are all Spanish, of course, but almost all of them have an English section (I had to learn to ask for “novelas en inglés” so I didn’t get sent to the teaching-English book section) ranging from a single table piled 30 books deep with dusty paperbacks, to an entire section of shelves.

raferguson

Jun 25, 2011, 8:03 PM

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One obscure destination that I still talk about is the Museo de las Intervenciones. Mexico has been invaded many times in the last 200 years, many more times than you might think. If you can read Spanish, you will leave the museum with a complete understanding of Mexico's foreign policy.

Richard

http://www.fergusonsculpture.com

Rolly

Jun 25, 2011, 9:01 PM

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Did you know that there is a US Military Cemetery = México City National Cemetery?

Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Tashby, save that canal trip for Sunday, I think its the 24th, then you can have an enthusiastic group!

esperanza

Jul 4, 2011, 4:19 PM

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OK, back to the talk about Café Tacuba. I and two others had comida there today . Let me tell you: it was AWFUL. I won't retract my prior glowing review, because the last time I ate there it was truly outstanding. Today, though, was horrid AND expensive. I wouldn't go back and I wouldn't recommend that anyone else go for comida.

Each of us ordered the menú del día, at 200 pesos per person, plus a pitcher of naranjada at 80 pesos.

We each had consomé con picazón (chicken consommé with chopped cilantro, onion, chile serrano, and avocado). It was very good, obviously made in-house from actual chicken.

One person ordered the fresh fruit cocktail, which she said tasted like it had been cut up two days ago and stuck in the refrigerator.

Two people ordered the appetizer of chicharrón with guacamole and panela cheese. It was just so-so.

We each ordered arroz a la mexicana, which was served with the soup and meant to be put it in. The rice was served cold, and not in a good way, but it went fine with the soup, which was very hot.

One person ordered enchiladas tapatías with green pipián. She said they were stuffed with white-meat chicken and were okay.

One person ordered costilla de res con chilaquiles (beef rib with chilaquiles). I tasted his totally flavorless, tough cut of beef. Ugh. He couldn't eat it and filled up on bread.

I ordered pechuga de pollo al horno (oven-cooked chicken breast). The bone-in half breast was very large and only slightly overcooked but without flavor and covered with an equally flavorless beige gravy. It seemed to have been poached and then stuck in the oven for a minute or two. Its side of calabacitas with tomatoes was terrible.

Desserts came with the menú. The desserts turned out to be a choice of pears in syrup, guavas in syrup, or arroz con leche. Not any good, any of them.

The total bill was $750 pesos, including our tip. It was way, way too much money for a less than mediocre meal. The maitre d' was deep in conversation with another employee when we left. I wish he had asked us how we liked our meal. Grrrrrrr.

I would still recommend Café Tacuba for a late Sunday breakfast. It is a jumping, fun place from about 11AM till 1PM on a Sunday.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

tashby

Jul 4, 2011, 10:39 PM

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Quote

One person ordered costilla de res con chilaquiles (beef rib with chilaquiles). I tasted his totally flavorless, tough cut of beef. Ugh. He couldn't eat it and filled up on bread.

"He" agrees with the above review entirely, down to the last note. Thank goodness for the soup. Too bad the Chinese Restaurant had packed bags/wasn't there.

Anonimo

Jul 5, 2011, 4:14 AM

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Too bad the Chinese Restaurant had packed bags/wasn't there.

Which Chinese Restaurant was that, Travis?

Is the Mojing Comida China still in business at Calle Humboldt #56, esq. Artículo 123, Colonia Centro?

Saludos,
Anonimo

esperanza

Jul 5, 2011, 6:18 AM

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That's the one, Sr. Anónimo. It's gone.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

TigerTonio

Jul 9, 2011, 4:42 PM

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Travis, I'm a little late here as I don't check in with this forum often anymore, but I will add my recommendation to Esperanza's - check out JASO. Do the tasting menu or if you want to play it "simple"(haha), go for a plate of their foie gras ravioli topped with black truffle. "Orgasmically" delicious.

www.jaso.com.mx

Maesonna

Aug 1, 2011, 8:54 AM

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July is over, but it may be useful to future readers of this thread to keep collecting ideas for things to do and see in DF.

From another forum, here’s an account of someone’s trip on the tren suburbano and a couple of peseros to Tlalnepantla to visit two pyramids; Tenayuca and Santa Cecilia.

(This post was edited by Maesonna on Aug 1, 2011, 9:06 AM)

tashby

Aug 7, 2011, 4:40 PM

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Thanks to everybody for the help with my trip. It was just great. I spent all of July, and here's what I did, in abbreviated/list format. What an amazing city!

Worst meal: Café Tacuba

Most disappointing meal: Azul Condesa

Most pleasant dining surprise: A super Coq au Vin at Bistro La Gloria (?) in Condesa

Most ridiculously abundant type of restaurant in Condesa: French Bistro

Best Churro: The Churro place in Coyoacan in between the Plaza and Frida’s Blue House.

Worst Churro: The other Churro place on the other side of the Plaza in Coyoacan. Just nasty. Inedible.

Best Taco: The variation on Tacos al Pastor at Tacos “El Griego” in Condesa on Michoacan

Best day on a watercraft: Xochimilco – FUN, but only with a group! The trajineras with only a couple of people looked sad.

Best Park: Parque Mexico (Condesa); second best: Parque Lincoln (Polanco).

Random fun day: La Reforma on pedestrian/bycicle Sunday

Most pleasant museum surprise: Joaquin Clausell’s studio at the Museum de la Ciudad, an otherwise nothing museum. His studio is one giant mosaic of paintings on all the walls, floor to ceiling, that took 30 years to do. Amazing.

Worst serendipitous moment: Being locked out of the apartment all night on a rainy, cold night. Elevator was broken, and person I rented from failed to give me a full set of keys, so couldn't use secondary door. Ugh to her.

Best serendipitous moment: Wandering into Plaza del Angel just as the 17-and-under Mexican National Futbol Team was arriving during their World Championship parade.

Biggest surprise: Seeing myself and friends in the cover photo of several Mexico City dailies at the above mentioned championship celebration. (see attached "Where's Waldo?" photo....no really, I can actually see myself and my friends in the print version of the photo!)

Undoubtedly interesting neighborhood I still haven’t figured out how to enjoy: Roma

Best, lucky find: A map printed by the CITY tourism department that shows all the streets in the centro historico and indicates what their specialties are: the wedding dress street, the lamparas street, the muebles street, etc. Also has walking tour routes and great graphics.

Building I just can’t get over even after seeing it several times: Palacio de Correos

Favorite bookstore: Cafebreria El Péndulo – Roma location on A. Obregon

Second favorite bookstore: Fondo Culturaeconomica, Condesa.

Biggest exercise in futility: Trying to see the Tiffany curtain at Belles Artes. Still haven’t seen it in four tries.

Bad/Good bank experience: Losing my atm card to a machine that ate it – was my fault; being thankful Bank of America delivered me a new card by Fedex just two days later.

Worst traffic: Taxi between Polanco and Condesa

The thing I don’t need to see again for at least a year or ten: Argentinian Grill restaurant

The one thing I wanted to buy but couldn’t find: UNAM sweatshirt

Most frightening/uncomfortable moment: none

And here's a list of things I did with a month in Mexico City:
-Touribus
-Monte de Piedad (National Pawn Shop HQ on Zocalo)
La Catedral Metropolitana
Palacio Nacional (great year-long museum exhibition for bicentenario)
Museo de Caricaturas (?) – funky but fun
Museo de Estanquillo – really well done exhibit, but not what I was hoping to see
Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso – great, just great
Palacio Belles Artes
Palacio de Correos – just can’t get over the place, interior and exteriors
Templo Mayor
Museo de Arte Popular (Wow! What a beautifully done museum!)
Museo de Antropología (It’s all been said before)
Museo de la Ciudad (Joaquin Clausell studio)
Museo Dolores Olmedo
Frida’s Blue House and Coyoacan neighborhood on a weekend
Bazar Sabado in San Angel
Casa de Azulejos
Teatro Insurgenetes (exterior)
Art Walk in Roma on Sunday (Alvaro Obregon)
The lobby of the Gran Hotel (wow, and that tiffany ceiling!)
Universidad del Claustro de Sor Juana (not much here, but interesting to me just being where she was)
Xochimilco – Now that’s a floating party on Sundays…
Bycicle/Pedestrian Sundays on La Reforma (fun! And not just for those on bikes)
El Péndulo – Bookstore with really interesting and indiosyncratic collection
Fondo Culturaeconomica (Condesa…wow!)
Lincoln Park, Polanco
The Alameda
Wandering backstreets of el Centro Historico

(This post was edited by tashby on Aug 7, 2011, 4:50 PM)

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Rolly

Aug 7, 2011, 5:33 PM

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WOW!!!

Rolly Pirate

La Isla

Aug 7, 2011, 5:52 PM

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So pleased you liked my favorite museum in Mexico City: the Museo de Arte Popular! The director is a student of mine and I´ll let him know how much you enjoyed your visit.

tashby

Aug 7, 2011, 6:45 PM

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The Museo de Arte Popular is so spectacularly well-done! I'm no expert on all the different genres, so I can't comment on how complete the collection is or whether or not it represents the very best of the very best from everywhere. But that said, I have been around the block and know some of the different work from different areas. It's a hugely ambitious undertaking, and frankly, I was really impressed with how well-executed the whole museum is. Spectacular. And such a relatively new museum....could it get even better???

Plus, I (finally) got to see the Huichol Volkswagon Beetle! I believe it was created in Guadalajara last year, but I never managed to go see it at Cabanas. (My bad, my lazy.) So I was really happy to see it in the museum. Please send my thanks and kudos to your student, the Director. Well done!

See the attached photos of the VW Bug, taken by my friend Candice.

(This post was edited by tashby on Aug 7, 2011, 6:48 PM)

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La Isla

Aug 7, 2011, 7:33 PM

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The museum does have a marvelous collection of artesanias from all over the country, some historical, much of it contemporary, some donated by collectors and artisans, some commissioned by the museum. Like all museums it can only display a portion of the collection at one time. As time goes on, the museum is bound to become even better if the dedication, integrity and expertise of the director and his staff has anything to say about it. Try to time another visit to Mexico City in October, so you can see the fantastic Desfile de Alebrijes Monumentales, which has become a tradition in the city. This year the fifth version will take place on Saturday, October 22.

Isn't the Volchol amazing?

Anonimo

Aug 8, 2011, 2:46 AM

Post #60 of 61 (5419 views)

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Excellent, Tashby! I enjoyed that very much.

I can understand how Colonia Roma may not immediately appeal to all.

Agreed about the Argentinean grill restaurants. However, they can be very enjoyable. I especially liked Parrilla Quilmes. El Diez Roma is o.k. but very "sports bar" in atmosphere. One advantage is its proximity to our usual hotels in Col. Roma.

Sorry to hear about Azul Condesa. I'd been waverng about eating there ever since it opened. I think we will return, instead to El Racó, on the Avenida Sonora, across from Parque México, where we had an overall excellent experience a year or so ago.

We also love Parque México!

Saludos,
Anonimo

richmx2

Aug 11, 2011, 12:01 AM

Post #61 of 61 (5271 views)

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Um... what about the new inter-urban train (Tren Subrbano) that runs north to Cuititlan (EdoMex)? "Indianagirl" recently wrote an excellent report on her trip to Tenayuca (via Tren and pesero) well worth reading to those who use Mexico City area public transit:

http://mexfiles.net
http://voiceofmexico.com
http://editorialmazatlan.com