Apr 23, 2009, 11:52 AM
Post #58 of 62
Oops, Hound Dog, I totally missed your request for leafy, quiet neighborhoods. Yup, that is hard to find in Centro proper, but I think it can be done...
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I love Llano Park, of course, and that is abundantly leafy. I used to live by Conzatti Park, a gorgeous tree-lined square that you would never know is just a 5-minute walk to Santo Domingo. If you could find something there, it would be golden. I lived on Jacobo Dalevuelta, a street that stretched between Llano and and Conzatti. The advantages to this location are too numerous to go into, but here is a sampling:
You have a pleasant, relatively traffic-free walk downtown via the Alcala (though I prefer the busier but more cafe-populated street of Garcia Vigil).
You do not need a car.
You can hear calenda processionals as they approach the center and have time to get out and see them, but are far enough away from the action in case the party goes on all night.
Great food every direction you go.
You are a 10-minute walk to the Pochote organic market and free foreign film theater.
There is a kickass Friday tianguis in Llano for all your weekly shopping needs.
The English library is nearby if you miss or need English reading materials.
And, yes, you too can attend the yoga, meditation and sufi whirling at Casa de Angel yoga center!
I'm sure Geri would have much more to say on this topic because I believe she's near Llano.
Now, across Calzada de Republica, the neighborhood of Jalatlaco continues. This is an extremely quiet neighborhood, with artists' studios and a health food store along the cobblestone streets and I've seen places for rent and sale nearby. You've probably been in this area, all around the Casa Arnel property. Not so many trees, but the lack of traffic and nearby Llano Park makes for some fresher air.
My other dream neighborhood is Xochilmilco, but it's a bit uphill from the zocalo, so not quite as convenient. It goes by the gorgeous Biblioteca Infantil. It follows the extension of the aqueducts that you see at El Pochote. There are trees and lots of bugambilla and jacaranda, and a modest weekly market tucked in there.
Further north, on the other side of Ninos Heroes de Chapultepec, you have the Reforma district. I find Calle Jasmines very leafy and beautiful, as I do Calle Amapolis. They do experience their comida rush hour crunches, however, so maybe a side street or a privada would be mellower. Here, however, it would be a 35-minute walk to the zocalo.
A neighborhood I haven't explored thoroughly is the area around La Soledad. There are ample trees, but I think also ample church bells at all hours.
Come to think of it, I also saw a fairly unattractive but fabulously located house near the centro. It was above our budget, but it was this mellow little corner of town kind of hidden away. I don't think you'd like the house per se, but the location was kind of cool. I think it faced a small green space with some trees, but my memory fails me. It was located on the south side of Ninos Heroes de Chapultepec, right across from the parking lot of the Hotel Fortin Plaza. Let me know if you want more details on that one, and I'll try to dig up more information.