Living in Mexico: new discoveries in and around Ajijic
A friend told me a grand old flea market in Guadalajara. She didn't know the street names, but had paid only 35 pesos for an incredible black flapper dress with expensive beading and black fringe work that would sell for hundreds of dollars new. I had to go. With directions like, "turn left at McDonalds and drive a couple of miles until you see the cemetery," and unlimited patience on my part, I finally found it. If the market has a name, I don't know it, but it was over one mile long with booths at each side of the street and in the center. It's starting to sprawl out to the side streets. Not your typical tianguis (outdoor market), it has no produce or staples section. It does however, have numerous taco stands and even a hamburger and hot dog stand.
I walked for more than two miles. It was one of those days I needed to be by myself. Whenever I have company, I have to retreat into myself for a few days. My friends know that and give me the space. Driving alone in Guadalajara into new territory is difficult. You need an extra set of eyes to see the small street signs pasted on the corners of buildings. McDonalds seemed to be a great place to stop for a map check, get one of their outstanding breakfast burritos and take a potty break. The McBurritos in the states are nothing like the ones down here.
Vendors sold everything at the market — from toilets to tapestries, from appliances to apple dolls. There were a lot of clothes. Many were used, but there were racks of new clothes with Sears labels, Donna Karan and other well-known brand labels — most for less than $10 USD. Parts for broken appliances were spread on tarps next to collectible comic books. Pirated CDs with music and computer software were brazenly hawked with no regard to copyrights. You could load up on underwear and makeup.
The market is only open Thursdays. It begins at 8 a.m. when most of the vendors come through and buy lots for their own stores. About 2 p.m. they pack it all up and take it who knows where… probably another street market.
It's a must see for itinerant shoppers. The market is located along the street of Francisco Sarabia and extends approximately from Manuel Payno, south to Gigantes. The street intersects Revolución about midway between Ejercito and Niños Heroes. Be early for the best deals and for the fewest crowds.
Bougainvillas Movie Theater
I finally attended Ajijic's movie theater located on the second floor of the Bougainvillas Plaza on the Carretera. I was pleasantly surprised. With a large lobby and three smaller theaters with good acoustics and comfortable seats. Most of their films are in English and subtitled in Spanish
Fiesta Purepecha
Friday, we attended an indigenous cultural festival at CABA (Centro Ajijic de Bellas Artes), which is a gallery, restaurant and is home to many cultural events. Outside in the garden, we were regaled with music and dancing from the ancient peoples of the Tarascan Highland in Michocán. Four musicians, called Los Rayos del Sol, in traditional Indian costume played music and sang in Tarasco, the native language of the Purepecha people.
Several young men dressed in elaborate clothing embroidered by their girlfriends performed the Danza de Los Curpites, a folk dance rooted in pre-Columbian culture. They wore masks and decorated their costumes with ribbons, tiny plates, cups and beads. I chuckled to see a pair of cowboy boots and frayed jeans peeking out beneath one of the more elaborate woman's costumes. In between the special dances, the dancers invited attendees up on the makeshift stage to join them.
Scattered about the lawn were native Indian women and children from Angahuan and Ocumicho. Women with back strap looms demonstrated their weaving and provided delightful hand-made dolls, shawls and masks for sales.
The Purepecha people are generally shy and don't mingle with modern society, so this was a rare chance to get a peek into their society. Xill fessenden, a director of CABA, has lived in Michoacan and was able to provide us with an exceptional peak into a delightful society.
She and she and her co-director, Estela Hidalgo plan to refocus CABA, developing a cultural art center, providing for ongoing workshops on ceramics and seminars on pre-Columbian history, sculpture and photography.
A gift for you
I'm cooking up a batch of Agua de Jamaica as I write this column. It occurred to me you might want to join me in a toast, and at Christmas you can add a little rum for a more festive drink. Jamaica (Pronounced ha-mahyk-ah) is a scarlet-colored drink made from dried jamaica flowers. It's highly diuretic, good for your cholesterol, cheap and it tastes great. Besides, it's simple to make. You can get the jamaica flowers in specialty Mexican markets. We have several grades here. Most run from 50-80 pesos a kilo. A kilo goes a l-o-o-n-g way. Here's the recipe:
- 2 cups dried hibiscus flowers.
- 10 cups water
- 3/4 cup sugar (more or less to taste)
Rinse the dried flowers and drain.
Put in a large saucepan and add 6 cups water.
Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes.
Strain the juice into a pitcher, add the sugar and mix, then add the remaining 4 cups of water.
Chill.
Easy! Make sure to store in a glass or plastic container. I make up a batch about once a week and keep it in half-gallon wine bottles.
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